Posted by darcerin on 2013.02.02 at 22:10
I'm in the midst of a head cold, so my brain isn't working so well right now. I'm hoping you can at least confirm the answer I've come up with. *sigh*
I'm knitting a baby blanket that originally required 71 stitches with a double strand of yarn. However, since the baby I'm knitting for will be born in the spring, I'm knitting a lighter version of it. My first attempt was on the US 13 needles the pattern suggested, and it turned out far too...what's the word? Airy? Anyway, it didn't look right to me because there were places that you could see right through the blanket.
I took it to my LYS and they suggested not only sizing down to US 9's, but doubling the pattern minus 8 stitches, since the border has 4 and 4 on each end. (71 x 2 = 142 , 142 - 8 = 134). It didn't sound quite right to me when they told me that, but I went ahead and cast on 134 anyway. Then I got to the purl 3, knit 2 part, got to the end where I'm supposed to knit four for the border and I end up with an extra stitch. I go back and look at the entire row and everything looks fine, haven't goofed anywhere. Now I'm thinking, since the pattern calls for an uneven number of stitches (4 + 3 + 2 + 4 = 13) the row should have an uneven number of stitches? So I'm guessing I need to go down to 133. 4 + (5 x 25) + 4. Does that sound right?
My poor head is spinning trying to figure this out. I'm sure I'm making this much more difficult than it actually is. Your math and your help is sincerely appreciated!
Posted by darcerin on 2013.01.26 at 19:13
I'm hoping someone can help me, even as vague as I'm about to be!
I was about to start the poncho pattern from this book
. However, the instructions have two sets of directions in it. The first is the "stitch pattern" with four rows of directions, and then there are the "poncho directions". The poncho directions actually tell me which size needles to use, as well as how many stitches I need to cast on, etc.
My question is, is the stitch pattern something I can ignore, and I can go straight to the poncho directions? Or do I need to start the poncho with the stitch pattern and then go to the poncho directions?
Any help is appreciated. Thanks!
Posted by frankie110 on 2013.01.11 at 16:37
Hi, I have been knitting regularly now for a few months and an comfortable with many stitches, however I keep switching it seems from RS to WS and I don't know how I do it!
Posted by loupnoir on 2012.12.15 at 18:20
I started a sweater, Berkshire Dolman, and quite stupidly did not read the entire pattern. So, I CO the back, knit the ribbing, got very close to where I thought I should start shaping for the armscye and then, finally, read the pattern and went, "Eh."
What I've got: a big old rectangle of ribbing and stockinette stitch, about twelve inches or so, knit in an aran weight yarn.
What I want: a simple pullover sweater with a cowl neckline (not turtleneck).
You'd think that would be easy to find in that weight yarn, with about the same number of stitches for the back (84), knit on 9s and 10s.
My knitting mojo is just not working. I'm not a designer. I can follow a (simple) pattern.
Posted by ice_axel on 2012.12.05 at 12:08
Hello, I'm new to this community and thought I'd share!
I just wanted to share my joy at finally making my first knitted project. It started out the other day, after picking up the needles for the first time since I was about 13, and wanting to learn how to purl and remember how to cast on/off. I knitted this for 3 days (40 stitches across, 80 rows long) and then decided to sew it to make it a nice ipod sleeve, I'm pretty proud of it, and I'm looking forward to learning how to do all the other technical knitting stitches like cabling and ribbed stitches! I've joined Ravalry.com and it looks brilliant- all the patterns do look intimidating though. Any feedback or advice would be nice
A little mind boggled after thinking I'd been knitting the left handed way since my nan taught me (she's right handed, I'm left), I've actually been knitting the right handed way the whole time...( Behind the cutCollapse )
Posted by gunma_gal on 2012.11.13 at 20:11
I realize this must be an obvious answer, but I cannot decide which answer would be right.
The pattern I'm knitting starts off as stockinette stitch, but I'm having trouble figuring out what to do when the pattern changes. The pattern states: "Work in St st until piece measures 5 inches from beginning, ending with a WS row." Now, I am fine up until the last part. Do I end with a WS row showing, or do I end by pearling the WS row?
The first choice has me ending after knitting, and the second choice has me ending by pearling...
Any help you might have will be appreciated!
Posted by demoncat131 on 2012.11.01 at 11:56
Current Mood: confused
Hi I'm new here but I have this slip-stitch pattern I'm working a gague on and I don't know how to calculate the gauge over rows. Could someone please help?
Posted by darcerin on 2012.07.19 at 19:28
I'm looking to knit something similar to this:( Pretty scarf!Collapse )
Obviously the one in the picture is crocheted. I'd like to do a knitted version, but I don't know how many rows it would take to get the right size stripes. Normally I'm not anal, but for some reason, if the stripes won't match in size on each end, I get really annoyed. Especially as this will be a gift for someone.
What's your normal stitch count for scarves? I usually use 25-30, but I always think the scarf will be too bulky if I get close to the 30 range.
I'm also wondering if I could do something beyond garter stitch for this, just to make it less plain. Any ideas? Thanks!
Posted by gunma_gal on 2012.03.24 at 21:20
Hi, all. I'm working on a pattern that uses the following directions:
"B= Bobble- Knit 3 stitches in same stitch alternating between front and back of stitch, turn, knit same 3 stitches you just made, turn and knit same three stitches once more. Bind off two stitches leaving the remaining stitch on the needle and continue with pattern."
I've read it a number of times, but I can't wrap my head around it. If I knit 3 stitches in the same stitch, doesn't that reduct it to one stitch? If that were the case, I wouldn't be able to turn it around and knit those same stitches again... than again.
If anyone could explain this to me another way, I'd really appreciate it. :)
Posted by atomicempress86 on 2012.03.19 at 15:30
I am currently finishing up my practicing knitting (which I have just done knit in, I go back for my purl lesson with my adoptive grandmother soon) does anyone have any good recommendations for any books with patterns for beginners, that I could use now and when I have some other stitches down as well? I appreciate any help.
Posted by darcerin on 2012.03.07 at 22:21
I started knitting back in November, and I have knit and purl down to a T. I'm working on several scarves, and my first baby blanket. After I finish this blanket, I want to make another one, but I'm having an issue (in my mind anyway!) about the 3rd row.
Row 3: K3, *[(k2tog] 3 times, (yo, k1) 5 times, yo (k2tog) 3 times]; repeat from * across row to last 3 sts, end k3
My only issue with it is that k2tog takes away a stitch, and nowhere else in the pattern do you add any - it's all either knit or purl. Eventually, wouldn't you run out of stitches?
Thanks for any help!
Posted by fantomatiquevie on 2012.03.04 at 01:08
Lemme preface by saying you guys have been AWESOME to me so far. All of my questions have been answered so well, that when I go into the project I have to doubt as to what to do! Thank all of you awesome knitters and crafters so much! Now! On to my question.
I'm knitting a lacy shawl, and this will be the biggest lacework project yet. The body is quite simple, just tedious. I do have a couple questions for you. The cast on/increase on the first step is a bit confusing;
Using the long tail cast on method, cast on 3 sts.
Knit 6 rows. Pick up 3 sts from the long edge of
the garter stitch, with an additional 3 sts from the
cast on edge, for a total of 9 sts.
I'm not exactly sure where to pick up...I'm a bit slow at this, so if someone would/could write it out for me in layman I'd really appreciate it!
Row 67: K3, YO, K2, (YO, K3, PASS 1ST knit ST
over last 2 knitted STs) 55 times, to 5 STs from end,
YO, K2, YO, K3
What does it mean PASS 1st knit st over last 2 knitted sts? How do I go about this?
Thanks so much in advance!
Posted by fantomatiquevie on 2011.12.20 at 17:54
Hello! I have a question for you awesome people. I'm about to start knitting a pair of gloves on DNPS, and I understand everything except the turning round. Here's how it goes:
Cast on 48 stitches with double point needles. Place a marker and join for working in the round.
Knit 4 rounds.
Turning Round: [YO, k2tog] around.
Knit 4 rounds.
Decrease Round: [k4, k2tog] around. (40 stitches)
What is a turning round? And how do I go about with it? Any instructions/videos would be most helpful, thanks in advance! (also, happy chrismahanukwanzakaha).
Posted by slashlover on 2011.12.17 at 10:27
I want to knit a shawl for my mother and got a free pattern which I think would be perfect, it's the one here
The firefly yarn is a ladder yarn shown here
so how do I hold it to knit? Do I knit both sides of the ladder together or do I knit with one side and knit with the other on the return row? I'm trying to picture it but get confused and I'd rather work it out before I spend the money. The pattern just says to knit every row.
Thank you in advance.
Posted by fantomatiquevie on 2011.11.17 at 01:57
Current Music: David Bowie | I'm Afraid of Americans
...But how do you get your stitch to look like this?! All I've done is garter stitch, and some k2p2 ribbing...and all my stitches are bumpy! How do I get them to look smooth like the photo? Thanks!
Posted by potthead on 2011.10.29 at 14:53
Does anyone happen to know if there is a less expensive yarn similar to Tilli Thomas Symphony Lace
? I'd need about two skeins of Symphony Lace, and $80 is a little steep for me right now.
Thank you! :)
Posted by fantomatiquevie on 2011.10.23 at 04:51
Current Music: Feist & Ben Gibbard | Mushaboom
How do you keep track of what row or stitch your on? Do you write it down every time? Do you just have a super amazing memory? Something else? I need a good way to keep track of a 2x2 rib pattern...k2 p2 for 42 stitches. It seems like writing down every stitch makes my knitting take longer than usual...but if I don't, I suddenly forget the stitch I just did! I guess I'm just too absent-minded ^^;; So suggestions are welcome!
Posted by loupnoir on 2011.09.18 at 21:31
Current Mood: curious
Has anyone used a Beam-and-Read, or any other sort of portable lighting device?
Twice a month or so, I spend a couple of hours knitting in an office with terrible lighting. Working in there usually gives me a headache. I need more light.
I'm looking for small(ish), easily portable ways to light my knitting.
Posted by trailrat on 2011.08.25 at 16:00
I want to make some of those winter warmers that can be slung in a microwave to be warmed up!
Is this a good idea? What do I need to know? What wool is safe for such a project?
Any advice greatly received
Posted by fantomatiquevie on 2011.08.16 at 04:48
Current Music: Show Me | My Fair Lady
I'm a total n00b when it comes to this, and I'm totally stuck. It literally took me all day till this minute to figure out to m1 in knit (by picking up the bar). I'm going to be starting a pretty simple triangle shawl. Here's where I run into problems:
Row 1,k1, m1, knit remaining stitches across row-this is the right side
Row 2, p1, m1, purl remaining sts-this is the wrong side
How do I m1 on a purl row? Does it want me to pick up the bar and knit it, and then purl the rest of the row? @_@ Links to videos are welcome! Thanks so much for any help you can give me, I'm getting so exasperated!
Posted by perigrine on 2011.07.25 at 14:41
So, I am making these Finnish baby pants
- in the round even - and I'm up to the first leg. Except, I only have DPN's in a 4mm that are 9 inches long. These are long enough to annoy me and meant I was getting nothing done. So I changed to a 4mm circular and that works..sort of. Its not my favorite way to knit.
As a compromise, just to get them DONE, I was wondering if changing to 3.75mm (and thus 7inch) DPN's will be ok. I'd be fine with adding an extra row to get then a smidgen longer, and leaving a set of decreases in (ok, leaving decreases undone wont work..I need 40 st to start the foot)..but I think I will run into a problem when this current yarn runs out, as its a fraction thicker than the new ball.
I just happen to have skewers out of kebabs that measure 4mm (fluke!) I could, in theory, tidy those up to make 4.5 inch dpn's as well.
If I dont get them done, the baby they are meant to be for will have grown out of them!
A) persevere with the 4mm magic looping
B) switch to 3.75 x 7inch needles
C) suck it up and use the 4mm x 9inch needles
D) frog back the 20 rows of leg and start again with the 3.75 needles and the new yarn
E) eat chocolate and wait for the baby to grow out of them, then frog.
F) waste time playing with the skewers.
Posted by peskywhistpaw on 2011.07.21 at 13:42
Hi guys! I was looking on Ravelry and found the pattern for the Summer Stream Scarf
, which I'm now hoping to make for my mother. So I was just wondering a few things about it – specifically, about the yarn.
I was hoping to make it with this yarn
, but I was also hoping to not have to knit it double-stranded. Would that be at all possible if I were to use this yarn, or would I have to go with something initially thicker (and if so, how much thicker, and what yarn specifically would you suggest)?
Also, has anybody here used that yarn before? Is it soft?
Thanks so much for your help! I'm getting better at knitting lacy things, but am not so good at picking out the yarn, I'm afraid. I'm also a bit wary of doing lacework while holding two strands of yarn, because I'd probably get confused and mess up.
Posted by xdragonladyx on 2011.06.09 at 21:36
( pictureCollapse )
I'm so tickled with myself for making this. I found a couple of patterns through Ravelry, but nothing really struck me, so I made up my own! I'd been thinking about making it for a while now, but when I got my hands on a free Tardis ringtone, I knew I had to make the police box cover to go with it. I used the yarn I have on hand, some blue wool, glow-in-the-dark 'glow worm white' for the windows, and "I love this Yarn" in black. I'll have to be super careful washing it, but I wasn't about to go out and buy more yarn when I had the colors on hand already. Plus I love that I got to use my glow yarn in another project. I think that has been my best clearance find ever.
If anyone is at all interested in testing out the pattern and giving me some feed back, I have my pattern notes up on my blog. -->http://xdragonladyx.livejournal.com/486729.html
<-- I've never made a pattern before, so I can't guarantee that it will make a whole lot of sense to anyone but me.
Posted by fate_steps_in on 2011.05.15 at 18:43
So, I was looking for yarn to make this scarf
. I'd get the yarn that was used in the pattern, but it's $18.50/hank and I need 4 hanks for the size I'm making. I just can't really afford to spend that much. The gauge for that (according to my LYS
) is 6.5-7.5 stitches/inch on US 1-2 needles. Now, I know the brand doesn't matter as long as the gauge is right, and I found this yarn
on knitpicks, and it looks like it could work, but under gauge it says "Lace weight." So, what does that mean? I tried googling it and I couldn't find anything about it.
Posted by starwisp on 2011.04.28 at 11:57
My current project is double knitting, and I'm happy with it so far
. I've done the technique before with only one strand of yarn, and this variation is really no problem except in one area. My two yarns end up so twisted together that I have to spend several minutes at the end of every row unwinding them. Anyone have any suggestions, or is this just something I'll have to deal with? Or perhaps I'm handling the yarn wrong?
Posted by xdragonladyx on 2011.04.14 at 11:02
I am getting so frustrated with companies that make double pointed needles. Twice now I've bought a set of needles, only to get them home and find out that the US sizing listed on the box doesn't match up with it's actual size. Meaning I have two sets of US size 4 dpns and now I have two sets of US size 5. I think there is only a 1/4 mm difference between the two sets of size 5. And it's not like I could have tested the last package I bought in the store either since it was in a closed container. About the only thing slightly positive about it, was that it was on clearance. I'm wondering if the falty sizing is why the line of needles were all on clearance.
Posted by dusty_dreams on 2011.04.09 at 23:37
Hello everyone! I have a small knitting crisis and am very thankful I found this community! I'm trying to knit a blanket that has alternating colors. The instructions say to knit several long strips of alternating color then sew them together. I've knitted 3 strips so far and I just realized: the lengths of the blocks of color on the strips DO NOT MATCH UP. I wasn't expecting this blanket to be picture perfect, but now it'll just look weird. Help! Why don't the lengths match? I've kept careful notes on the number of rows I knit per block for each strip, and I don't know what went wrong!
Posted by blubberfatality on 2011.04.05 at 21:58
Just wanted to tell everybody that the International Scarf Exchange 10 is up and looking for people to participate! I have done it several times now and have never been disappointed. I was freaked the first time that I wouldn't be a good enough knitter but just stretched my abilities and learned some new techniques along the way which helped me to become better so I think it's a great thing to try!
I am including this link
where you can find all kinds of information!
Posted by shhh_imcounting on 2011.04.04 at 17:09
Current Mood: frustrated
A while back, I posted a question about an earflap hat. I decided to use the pattern generator, which is great, except that I want the earflaps to be stockinette stitch so it matches the hat. The problem with that is that it rolls up at the ends (naturally). I know that happens with stockinette but didn't really think about it until I was almost finished with one earflap. Does anyone have a solution for this? As I said before, I really want the entire hat to be st. st. Thought about seed stitch or something, but that obsessive/compulsive side of me doesn't like that contrast. LOL Ribbing the edges? Don't know...that might look funny. Grrrr...
Posted by pullthestars on 2011.03.28 at 22:52
I absolutely adore the Dashing pattern for fingerless gloves from Knitty:http://knitty.com/ISSUEspring07/PATTdashing.html
I actually prefer them to the sister pattern of Fetching!
What I would LOVE to try is adding half fingers to those bad boys. Any suggestions on how I could do that?
Posted by gunma_gal on 2011.02.26 at 23:36
My pattern states that in the first row after casting on:
slip 1 as if to knit with yarn in back
I understand slip 1 as if to knit, but what does the "with yarn in back" mean?
Thanks in advance for any help.
Posted by kurohaneshizumi on 2011.02.23 at 18:36
Current Mood: worried
Hello~ I'm knitting a my first scarf for a costume and I'm having a mini crisis with the outcome of my rows.
First of all, as background, I'm knitting it vertically, for one. But this way I only have to switch colors four times instead of a billion. XD These are my dimensions:
5 stripes; blue, white, blue, white, blue. 294 stitches per row (7 ft). 8 rows per stripe.
I'm using 2, 19", size 9 circulars and garter stitching. The yarn is Vanna's Choice.
So. The reason I'm freaking out is because I just finished what I assumed to be 8 rows on my second color (white), but the yarn finished on the other side. Here are some pictures to illustrate:( Pictures.Collapse )
So can anyone tell me if I have indeed stitched 8 rows of each? Is it normal for the yarn to end on a different end? I'm I freaking out over nothing?? HELP.
~ShizumiX-posted to fandom_knit.EDIT: Thank you!! I counted the CO with my rows. orz I'm taking a row out so that it'll be even. c: Thank you again~~
Posted by shhh_imcounting on 2011.02.17 at 13:45
Current Mood: hopeful
Hey y'all! Ok, I was asked to knit a peruvian hat for a friend and I'm not liking any of the patterns I've found. I would love to just design it but my creative juices aren't flowing at the moment. He just wants the basic hat with ear flaps. I guess what I want from y'all is a suggestion (or two) of a good pattern. I can knit a no-pattern hat, but I have NO IDEA how to add the earflaps. Is there an easy way to do this?? If so, please tell me!!! Thanks!!!!
I hope this makes sense. I'm tired today. ;-)
Here is an image of what he wants...
Posted by sweetgingertea on 2011.02.13 at 19:04
I'm making hand/wrist warmers in the round using magic loop. I figured out how to go backwards purling and forward stockinette for the thumb hole, but now I'm having the problem of my stockinette coming out wrongside as I try to resume going back into my regular connected rounds again. Does anyone have any ideas?
Posted by tinpra on 2011.02.13 at 18:45
So I'm making a pair of horizonally ribbed arm warmers from my own non-existent pattern. For the most part it's been fantastically easy. Basically I've done a ribbed pattern along the lines of a scarf. The plan is to add buttons to it to close it off and make it adjustable since I'm also planning to make it relatively long -- from knuckles to elbow, hopefully.
Here's my problem, the last time I tried to make it, it was strictly an arm warmer so my mini-scarf pattern totally worked. (Tried b/c I had to toss out my project due to a bit of a house disaster.) Now that I'm making it so long, and b/c my arms get kinda fat, I'm thinking that I have to accomodate both the width of my hand and the the width of the upper part of my arm.
Anyone have any ideas? Should I increase for the area around my wrist, and then increase again near my upper arm? Make the whole thing big and just futz around with the placement of the buttons? If it helps, I'm doing this on straight needles, about 91 (or maybe 93) stitches cast on. There's a couple of pictures below the cut of what it looks like now, and what it should look like when I'm done. ( Pictures hereCollapse )crossposted to my personal journal
Posted by prilbot on 2011.01.05 at 19:41
I cant get my head around knitting I have tried books, guides, dvds and youtube clips. It always seems to make my brain hurt.
Whats the simpliest way of getting me going? I have recently had a child and want to go knit-krazy!
Posted by koo on 2011.01.05 at 09:19
I am wanting/needing/desiring the worlds easiest sock pattern for adults!
Posted by loupnoir on 2011.01.04 at 07:44
Current Mood: curious
After knitting him five pairs of socks using Ann Norling's adult basic sock pattern, my DH has informed me that the toes are a little uncomfortable.
I tried searching Ravelry for new sock patterns, but my brain exploded after three pages.
What I'm looking for is a basic, dull, guy sock pattern where the toe decreases are either very gradual or, preferably, not all on the sides.
Posted by xdragonladyx on 2010.12.26 at 21:30
I got my mom's socks all finished and gave them to her yesterday. They fit perfectly! I think I just found my new favorite sock yarn. I'll have to ask my mom if they make her feet sweat, that would be the only thing that would keep me from using it again. ( 2 PicturesCollapse )
The pattern is from Patons, it wasn't a free pattern so I can't give you a link to it. The yarn is called "Patons Stretch Socks." You know it's funny, but I didn't realize until I typed this out that I used the same brand for pattern and yarn. :P
The great thing about this yarn is how it has a lot of give to it. The socks fit my size 7 feet and my mom's size 8 feet with no problem either way. I might have to make my grandmother socks now though since she kept trying to convince my mother to give them to her.
BTW, I posted about this pattern (well on my first attempt at it) ages ago, and if it wasn't for the lovely ladies that commented I probably wouldn't have figured it out so easily. Thanks for the help!
Posted by starwisp on 2010.12.14 at 12:58
I only started knitting in the past year, but I am utterly in LOVE with it. Yarn has become a personal vice, and my stash is far greater than the strength of my fingers. I get most of my supplies from the thrift store due to cost restraints, but it doesn't bother me to have unidentified yarns and partial skeins. I get especially excited when I find several skeins of the same type, though, and so I snatched up this big bag of Bucilla Linora yarn, about twelve of the same dye lot, some still in the wrapper and some rolled into balls.
The problem is that this is a discontinued, vintage
yarn. I've a million ideas of what to do with it, and about 1,200 yards to play with, but unlike many of my yarns, ravelry doesn't have project suggestions. When I select a pattern, how flexible can I be on the weight, realistically? Ravelry lists this as worsted. Would it be unreasonable to use a sport or fingering weight pattern? I know there's some flexibility with enough yarn and the right needles, but I'm not sure how far it goes. ( The YarnCollapse )
Just for fun, I'm going to include the two projects I finished recently: my first hat, and my first toy!( ObjectsCollapse )
Posted by loupnoir on 2010.12.10 at 14:29
Current Mood: confused
The question for today is in regard to cast-ons.
I have a heck of a time guesstimating how much yarn to reserve for a long-tailed cast-on. It's always wrong.
Way back when, my mother taught me to knit my stitches on, a tried and true technique that apparently isn't as good as the LT cast-on...but is that really correct?
For your basic sweater sort of cast-on, which methodology do you recommend?
Posted by slashlover on 2010.12.10 at 01:37
Current Mood: confused
I'm attempting the Knitterly Garlend here
on the Lion Brand page.Next Row:
Cast on 10 sts, p to end of row – 33 sts. Work in St st for 3 rows. Next Row:
P12, bind off next 7 sts for neck, p to end of row. Next Row:
K12, cast on 7 sts over bound-off sts of previous row, k to end of row.
Work in St st for 3 rows
I have my 33 stitches but I'm not quite sure about the bind off part. If I purl 12 then bind off 7 and purl the rest then I end up with 12 stitches and then 14 so when I do the next row it doesn't work out. Can someone please explain what I'm doing wrong?
It's probably simple but I've never done binding off/casting on in the middle of a row.
Thanks for any help.
Posted by bluehippos on 2010.11.19 at 12:19
Current Location: Office of OSSUM
Current Mood: artistic
Ok so here is the deal. I am making a toque for myself because dude winters in Canada are ass butt cold. (a toque is a hat)
i am about 3.5 inches in and i want to turn it sideways and knit a cable around it.
here is how I think it would work and somebody please tell me if i am right or what.
Put all the stitches on a spare bit of yarn.
Cast on the width of the cable I want it to be (appx 10 sts for a 6 cable twist and two stitches on either side).
Knit around picking up a stitch off the spare yarn so i don't have to sew it together when it's done (yah i am lazy)
And then i would go back and pick up the stitches from the other side of the cable
Does that make any sense at all or am i just insane?
Thanks in advance
Posted by bkworm9 on 2010.11.12 at 18:17
Hello all. I'm working on my first project, a simple ribknit scarf, with the pattern being K2, P2 end with K2 on the first row, and P2, K2, end with P2 on the second row. I got distracted and the knitting for the last two rows looks a little funny - I think I may have started with K2 when I was supposed to do a P2 row (hope this makes sense). Is there any way to undo only the last two rows of knitting rather than undoing all my work?
Secondly, I'm looking ahead to future projects, and I really want to do the Knit 2 Hours or Less garter scarf from Lion Brand. Only thing is, it requires size 19 needles. I'm willing to buy them, but I'd really like to find some in bamboo. The needles I'm using right now (size 9) are bamboo and I've found them easier to knit with than any of the metal versions I've previously tried. Any idea where I might get size 19 bamboo needles?
Posted by horse_bunny on 2010.11.08 at 11:30
(x-posted, sorry for the dupes for people on the other lists)
I have a problem. My LYS(s) SUCK. I used to live near a fabulous place but it's a little out of my reach since I moved and now I'm left with one nearby store with a limited (really) overpriced selection and downright rude owner.
I've thought about making a monthly (or something) trek down to my old LYS (I guess the abbreviation would just be YS in that case) ;) but barring that, I think the Internet is going to become my supplier.
My question is: for those web-savvy folks who do it, where do you go to get your yarn online? Pros and cons? I'd love to hear some experiences.
It's strange how I so readily buy most everything else online but yarn has been a total hang-up for me. :p
Appreciate your feedback! ♥
Posted by bluefalconchick on 2010.11.05 at 13:55
I love to sew, but I am just now getting into the knitting and crocheting craze. I have no clue how to do either, and my friend Brenda is going to teach me-But I have this kit that I inherited from my grandma, and it's supposed to be rather easy, so if you guys might could help me with it, I'd be very thankful.
You see, my grandma had alzheimers and dementia during the last few years of her life, and she somehow thought it would be a good idea to remove the instructions from this box and now I can't find them. It's a circle loom afghan kit that you can make pretty flowers with and turn them into a blanket of sorts.
I truthfully do not even know if this is considered knitting, crocheting or loom weaving, but I'd like to know if anyone could give me a quick tutorial on how to get started.( The wildflower afghan kit & loom includedCollapse )
Posted by iprincesspretty on 2010.10.19 at 16:06
So as a gift I'd like to knit the Cable Cowl from this site. ginabrownsyarn.blogspot.com/p/cable-cowl.html
I've watched a few videos on how to cable, but they all show cables using only a few stitches, so I can't tell if I'm doing it right for this pattern. On my needles it looks kind of twisted up and confusing. I think I might be doing the cabling wrong.
The pattern says to Slip 1 TBL (I've just been slipping stitches normally for this). Then I knit one. After that it tells me to C20Back. For this I've been putting 20 stitches onto the cable needle and then continuing to the next part which is knit 12. After that I knit the 20 stitches on the cabling needle.
Is this the correct way to cable? It feels really tight and hard to knit. But I can't find any good explanations to figure out if I'm actually doing it wrong. Can anyone explain it a bit to me, or point me towards a link to help me out?
Posted by otisgal737 on 2010.10.18 at 08:06
Hi guys! I'm working on a sweater for my dog and I've reached a part of the pattern that doesn't make sense to me.
Right now i have 82 stitches on my needles. The pattern reads "Increase 1st on each RS row 9 times for 100 stitches"
The problem is that that's only 9 increases and I only have 82 stitches on the needle, that isn't enough to get to 100 st total, right? Am I missing something or is there a mistake here?
I was going to just do an increase on the end of each row (RS and WS) but then it warps the twisted rib established on the RS. I can't just do the increase 18 times because the section can't be that long.
I would really appreciate any advice you guys have, I can't figure out what I'm messing up :(
The pattern is the "Lemon Sweater" out of "Doggie Knits" by Corinne Niessner, and for those on ravelry this is the pattern - www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/lemon-sweater
Posted by loupnoir on 2010.10.02 at 13:32
Current Mood: confused
I'm working on a shawl-collared sweater, one of the free Lionsbrand patterns.
The pattern says:
Collar from RS, with smaller needles and beg at right shoulder seam, pick up and k 42 sts across back neck (got that)
row 1 (ws) k2*p2, k2* (got that, too)
Row 2 (rs) cast on 8 stitches, work in k2, p2 rib as established.
This cast on 8 new stitches happens 6 more times.
What sort of cast-on should I use? The long-tailed version isn't going to work, or at least I don't think it will. The instruction make it clear that the rest of the collar is worked separately from the body of the sweater and is then sewn down.